Corset making supplies: what you need to make a corset

What fabric do you need to make a corset?

Every corset pattern in the range uses two fabrics.

Structural coutil is the strength layer. It’s the firm base of the corset, and every corset pattern asks for it.

Decorative fabric is the outer layer, the part people see. For the modern corsets, lightweight cotton, satin, chiffon or lace all work. The historic corsets add options such as brocade, mesh and devoré net over selected panels. Keep the outer layer elegant rather than heavy. On Dinari the boning is worked internally, so the outer layer stays smooth and your fabric choice matters even more.

Do you need a lining? None of the supply lists include a separate lining. Each corset is built from the coutil layer and the decorative layer.

Specialist fabrics. Maradonna, the lingerie inspired corset bodysuit, also needs power mesh for the side panels and 3.5 mm foam for the cups.

All the amounts in this guide come from each pattern’s sewing instructions. They’re for the largest size and 150 cm (58 in) wide fabric.

What boning do corset patterns use?

Spiral steel boning is on every supply list. Most patterns use 0.6 cm (1/4 in) wide spiral steel. Maradonna uses 0.8 cm (5/16 in). You’ll need metal pliers or suitable cutters to cut it to length.

The boning sits in channels. On the modern corsets the channels are internal, between the two layers. Several historic corsets add external channels too. To stop the boning shifting or poking through at the ends, you can finish the channel ends with flossing, decorative stitching that’s both functional and pretty.

Do you need a busk for a corset?

Not for a modern corset. The modern patterns don’t use a busk.

Most historic corsets do. A metal busk is a front closure made of two steel strips, with loops on one side and studs on the other. It lets you put the corset on and take it off without fully loosening the laces, while keeping the front rigid.

There are four main types:

• Standard busk: straight, with evenly spaced loops and studs.
• Spoon busk: a wider, curved bottom for lower abdomen support. It suits Victorian styles.
• Heavy duty busk: thicker steel, for tight lacing and high reduction.
• Invisible busk: concealed in the fabric.

Busks also come in different finishes, such as nickel plated, brass or black coated. Each historic pattern names its busk by the number of loops and a maximum length. Sieger, for example, uses a 5 loop steel busk with a 30 cm maximum length. You’ll find yours in the historic table below. For more, read what is a metal busk in corset making.

What else goes on a corset supply list?

• Eyelets with washers. Every pattern uses them, and most product pages list a 0.8 cm hole. The count ranges from 10 on Volante to 56 on Eva. You set them with an eyelet press.
• Corset laces. Use good quality, non stretch laces, flat or round. Stretchy or weak laces loosen over time. Our guide on how to lace up a corset shows the lacing methods.
• Bias binding. This finishes the top and bottom edges. Most patterns use 1.2 cm wide binding. Several historic patterns use a second width as well.
• Piping. Some historic styles are piped. Larcetti uses 151 cm of polyester or nylon piping, Bollego uses 970 cm of 0.2 cm nylon piping, and Tolledo uses 44 m of 2 mm piping for its curved contour lines.
• Straps and elastic. Eva needs strap components for its adjustable shoulder straps. Maradonna lists 320 cm of 1 cm lingerie elastic and 100 cm of 0.2 cm premade rouleaux strapping.
• Matching thread in a colour to suit your fabrics.

What tools do you need for corset making?

The corset pages list this equipment:

• sewing machine
• needle and thread
• pins
• paper scissors and fabric scissors
• eyelet press
• metal pliers, boning cutters or suitable snips

You’ll also want:

• a tape measure, to take your bust, waist and hip measurements
• tailor’s chalk, to mark the busk position at centre front on a historic corset
• strong embroidery thread (cotton or silk) and a sharp embroidery needle, if you want to floss your channel ends
• a PDF reader such as Adobe Reader, plus a home printer for the A4 or US Letter files or a copy shop for the A0 file

How much do you need for each pattern?

These amounts come from each pattern’s sewing instructions. They’re for the largest size. Fabric is a length of 150 cm (58 in) wide fabric. Boning is 0.6 cm spiral steel and bias binding is 1.2 cm wide unless the table says otherwise.

Modern corsets

None of the modern corsets need a busk.

Historic corsets

The Body armour pack is different. It holds three patterns, the Hybrid Victorian corset, the neck corset and the shin pads, and each one has its own supply list in its instructions.

Where can I buy corset making supplies?

Ralph Pink Patterns sells digital sewing patterns only, not fabric or hardware. Look for a specialist corsetry supplier that sells coutil by the metre, spiral steel boning cut to length, busks by length and eyelets with washers. Take your pattern’s supply list with you, so you buy the right widths and lengths first time.

Questions makers ask

Are supplies included with the pattern?

No. Each pattern is a PDF download: the pattern in A4, US Letter and A0, step by step sewing instructions and a print guide. You buy your fabric and hardware separately.

Which corset pattern needs the least fabric?

Volante, the neck corset, needs 24 cm each of coutil and decorative fabric. Of the full corsets, Laila needs the least: 45 cm of coutil and 24 cm of decorative fabric.

What width of boning do I need?

Most patterns use 0.6 cm (1/4 in) spiral steel boning. Maradonna uses 0.8 cm (5/16 in). Your pattern’s instructions give the total length.

What size eyelets do I need?

Every pattern uses eyelets with washers, and most product pages list a 0.8 cm (8 mm) hole. The count ranges from 10 on Volante to 56 on Eva.

Does a beginner corset need a busk?

No. The modern corsets don’t use a busk. Busks come in with the historic range, starting with Sieger’s 5 loop steel busk.

About the author: Ralph Pink is a fashion designer and digital pattern maker with roots in couture, fashion design and corsetry. He has worked in the fashion industry since 2003 and started Ralph Pink Patterns in 2012.