How to choose your first corset pattern
Laila, Grace, Juliet and Volante compared
If this is your first corset, start with Laila, Grace or Juliet. They’re the clearest starting points in the Modern corsets collection, and all three are beginner patterns with a closed front, so there’s no busk to fit. Choose Laila for a small waspie, Grace for an underbust, or Juliet for an overbust with shoulder straps.
What makes a corset pattern good for beginners?
A good first corset teaches you real construction without the hardest techniques. That’s how the modern range is designed. Every modern pattern uses the same two layer method:
- a firm structural coutil layer, which gives the corset its strength
- a decorative outer layer, which is the part everyone sees
- internal boning channels between the two layers
- bias bound top and bottom edges
There are no busks, no piping and no historic hardware. The front is closed, so you don’t need to set a front opening. You still learn the core skills, though: boning channels, eyelet insertion and edge finishing. These patterns teach real construction, not simplified shortcuts, and they’re the best route into the more demanding historic range later on.
The closed front is also a blank canvas. You can add lace, beading, trims, contrast panels or a bold print. Lace appliqué and placement instructions aren’t included, so you’ll plan any embellishment yourself.
Ready to make your first corset?
Which beginner corset patterns can I choose from?
Every full corset in the modern range is marked Beginner. Volante, the neck corset, is marked Beginner / Intermediate. Here’s how they compare.
| Pattern | Style | Skill level | Sizes | Price | Pick it if... |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Laila | Waspie | Beginner | UK 4 to 20 | £15.00 | you want a quick, cost effective route into real corset making |
| Grace | Underbust, between a corset and a waspie | Beginner | UK 4 to 20 | £15.00 | you want a bust framing underbust that’s dramatic enough for burlesque styling |
| Juliet | Overbust with stay style shoulder straps | Beginner | UK 4 to 20 | £15.00 | you want a first corset that doesn’t look like a practice piece |
| Volante | Neck corset (accessory) | Beginner / Intermediate | One size | £12.00 | you’re not ready for a full corset and want a small, quick project |
| Bella | Longline overbust | Beginner | UK 4 to 20 | £15.00 | you want your first big corset |
| Aurora | Full overbust with a heart shaped front | Beginner | UK 4 to 20 | £15.00 | you want a dramatic first overbust with chevron seaming |
| Carmen | Burlesque style with a lower bust line and a plunging front hem | Beginner | UK 4 to 18 | £15.00 | you want a first corset that’s more stage ready than sweet |
| Eva | Longline underbust with adjustable shoulder straps | Beginner | UK 4 to 20 | £15.00 | you like a lingerie look with straps |
Prices include VAT. The shop shows prices in your local currency, and the price on the product page and at checkout is the one that applies.
Laila, Grace and Juliet are where to begin. Bella, Aurora, Carmen and Eva bring more visual drama once the foundations are in place. They still use the same simple modern construction, so they suit a beginner with a bit more ambition too.
Should my first corset be a waspie, underbust or overbust?
It comes down to how much you want to make and how much coverage you want. Here’s what each of the three starting patterns gives you.
Laila: the waspie
A waspie is a small corset that cinches the waist. Laila is the entry point to the range: a quick, cost effective route into real corset making. It has a clean, minimalist shape and a closed front. It also uses the least fabric of the three: 45 cm of coutil and 24 cm of decorative fabric. Once you’ve made Laila, you’ve got a much stronger foundation for Grace, Juliet, Bella, Aurora and, later, the historic corsets.
Grace: the underbust
Grace sits between a corset and a waspie. Its curved top edge frames the bust. It’s dramatic enough for burlesque styling but simple enough to build without historic complexity. It’s boned with 0.6 cm spiral steel boning and laces through 32 eyelets at the back. You’ll need 80 cm of coutil and 42 cm of decorative fabric.
Juliet: the overbust with straps
Juliet has stay style shoulder straps, a soft square neckline and a chevron front hem. It has no busk, minimal waist shaping and isn’t designed for tight lacing, which makes it a smart step up from a simple waspie. You’ll need 90 cm of coutil and 58 cm of outer fabric.
A quick way to decide:
- Want the simplest start? Choose Laila.
- Want a bust framing underbust with some drama? Choose Grace.
- Want an overbust with straps? Choose Juliet.
Is a neck corset a good first project?
It’s a good choice if you’re not ready for a full corset. Volante is a plunging neck corset with shoulder caps and arcing back panels. It’s an accessory, not a fitted bodice or a waist shaping corset. It’s a small project, quick to finish, with high visual impact.
Volante is a good way to practise corset construction on a small scale. It has internal boning channels, spiral steel boning, bias bound edges and 10 eyelets. It’s one size, and it needs just 24 cm each of coutil and decorative fabric, so it’s a nice way to use a small piece of special fabric like satin, lace or embroidered mesh.
Wear it with lingerie, over a waspie such as Laila, or on its own. If you want to change the neckline depth, shoulder coverage or back fit, make a quick toile first.
How do I choose the right size for my first corset?
Most full corsets in the modern range come in UK 4 to 20 (EUR 32 to 48, US 0 to 16). Carmen comes in UK 4 to 18 (EUR 32 to 46, US 0 to 14). All the sizes are nested in one pattern.
- Measure your bust around the fullest part, with the tape level.
- Measure your waist around your natural waist.
- Measure your hip around the fullest part of your hip and seat.
- Compare all three to the size chart on the product page and choose the closest base size.
- If you’re between sizes, make a toile (a test version) before you cut your final fabric.
Keep the tape snug but not tight, and measure over close fitting clothing or underwear.
The patterns are drafted for a dressmaker’s B cup. That’s a 5 cm (2 in) difference between your high bust and full bust. If your cup is larger, you may need a full bust adjustment. A size chart is a starting point, not a guarantee of fit, so the toile is worth the time. You’ll find every chart on the Size charts page.
The pattern comes as a PDF download. Print the A4 or US Letter file at home, or take the A0 file to a copy shop. Print at 100% scale and measure the test square before you print the rest. Seam allowance is included.
What should I make after my first corset?
Stay in the modern range for a bigger statement:
- Bella is a longline overbust with an unbroken front panel. It’s bigger than Laila and fuller than Grace.
- Aurora is a full overbust with a heart shaped front and chevron seaming. It’s where the modern range starts to feel properly dramatic.
- Carmen is burlesque inspired, with a lower bust line and a daring plunging front hem.
- Eva is a longline underbust with thick adjustable shoulder straps and a lingerie feel.
When you’re ready for more, move on to the historic corsets. They suit makers who’ve finished at least one modern project. Sieger is the one to start with. It’s the simplest historic corset in the collection. It adds a 5 loop steel busk, spiral steel boning and internal channels, without piping heavy or externally boned construction. Bonara, Romero and Larcetti are also approachable next steps. Our guide to modern and historic corsets explains the difference.
Questions makers ask
Do beginner corset patterns need a busk?
No. The modern corsets don’t use a busk, and Laila, Grace, Juliet, Bella and Aurora all have a clean closed front. Busks come in with the historic range, where most patterns use a steel busk.
What fabric do I need for my first corset?
Two fabrics: structural coutil for the strength layer, and a decorative outer fabric. Lightweight cotton, satin, chiffon or lace all work for the outer layer. Each pattern lists the amounts you need.
Will I get a paper pattern?
No. Every pattern is a digital download, so nothing is posted. After payment you get a download button and a download email. The pack has the pattern in A4, US Letter and A0, step by step sewing instructions and a print guide, all as PDF files.
Can I add lace or beading?
Yes. The closed front on the modern corsets gives you a clean surface for lace, beading, appliqué, trims or contrast panels. Placement instructions for lace and embellishment aren’t included, so plan your design before you start.
Can I tight lace Juliet?
No. Juliet has minimal waist shaping and isn’t designed for tight lacing.
About the author: Ralph Pink is a fashion designer and digital pattern maker with roots in couture, fashion design and corsetry. He has worked in the fashion industry since 2003 and started Ralph Pink Patterns in 2012.
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